Lillian Wies - Saga (2012-2013)

Lillian at Ginkakuji during a trip to Kyoto

Where were you in Japan as a JET and when?

I was a JET from 2012-2013 in Karatsu-shi, Saga Prefecture. I worked at three schools, the Karatsu Higashi Junior High School, Karatsu Minami High School, and the Karatsu Special Needs School.

What sparked your interest in applying for the JET program?

After college, I was interested in pursuing a career as a Japanese art historian but had never been to Japan and had very limited language abilities. JET seemed like a great way to immerse myself in Japanese culture, gain a greater understanding of the seasonal rhythms that are critical to Japanese art, and improve my language skills.

Lillian enjoyed the Hamasaki Gion Festival located in Hamatama 

What are some of the things your prefecture is known for? e.g. food, hotspots, etc.

Karatsu is an area with a rich history, unique cultural traditions, and home to a thriving pottery community. Karatsu castle dominates the city skyline, and there are also the ruins of Nagoya castle, where Toyotomi Hideyoshi launched a failed campaign to invade Korea. The biggest festival is Karatsu-kunchi in November, when large floats are paraded throughout the city, and there are lots of other festivals that take place in the area year round. One of my favorites was the Hamasaki Gion Festival in Hamatama during the summer.  Saga prefecture is also well known for pottery, including Karatsu-yaki, a rustic style of pottery commonly used in the tea ceremony, and Arita-yaki, refined porcelain that originally catered to Western customers. Located right on the sea, Karatsu is also well known for its fresh seafood, including practically live squid, and beautiful nature.

Lily decorating pottery in Arita, Saga Prefecture

Did you pick up any of the regional dialects? What are some of your favorite words or phrases?

I was too much of beginner speaker to pick up much Saga-ben, but I remember that for adjectives “ka” replaced “i” so that, for example, “atsui” (it’s hot) changed to “atsuka.”  While in Karatsu, I took tea ceremony and calligraphy lessons and my teachers taught me to speak in a very lady-like and refined manner. When I returned to visit them, after many years studying Japanese in the Tokyo area, I was scolded for speaking too much like a rough “Edokko” (child of Edo).

If you were to return to live in Japan, would you choose to live in that same prefecture?

I have lived in Japan several times since my year in Karatsu, but always in the Tokyo area because it has greater career opportunities for me. I loved my time in Karatsu, and Kyushu more generally, and have been back to visit a few times. The people are very warm and take great care to welcome visitors. At another stage in my life, it would be wonderful to spend more time in Karatsu and enjoy all the area has to offer.

Lillians and friends attending Karatsu Kunchi festival

How has your connection in relation to Japan changed since living in Japan?

Thanks to my time on JET, I felt confident that studying Japanese art and culture would be a fulfilling and lifelong project. After I returned from Karatsu, I completed my MA and PhD in Japanese art history at Harvard University and the University of Maryland, College Park. I’ve worked at several art museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the National Museum of Asian Art, and currently I am the Gregory and Maria Henderson Curatorial Fellow in East Asian Art at the Harvard Art Museums.

Thank you, Lillian, for sharing your JET story!